Vermentino is a white grape variety found in Sardinia and Tuscany. It is officially also the same variety as Favorita and the more famous Pigato. It is increasingly found in France where it is known as Rolle.
Vermentino has a number of synonyms. Controversially though, there is an ongoing debate over which are correct. DNA testing has revealed the grape to be identical to Pigato, a variety long planted in Liguria. Awkwardly though, growers there continue to dispute the scientific assertions as, in the vineyard, and indeed in the glass, the wines rarely resemble each other. The debate rages to such a point that some growers such as Terre Bianche bottle mono-varietal expressions of both Vermentino and Pigato to make their claims explicit. In Piedmont Vermentino is called Favorita. On the island of Corsica, and in southern France, it goes by the name of Rolle.
Vermentino has a number of advantages in the vineyard. The most important, in light of rising temperatures, is its resistance to heat and drought. It is not immune to stress of course, but it fairs better than most. It does well in sandy soils, close to the sea. Its thin skins make it susceptible to rot and so, the maritime conditions it is usually planted in are useful for dispersing humidity and keeping bunches aerated.
These days, there is a lot of very good Vermentino, refreshingly, still very affordable. As a general rule, look at the DOCG territory Gallura on the northern coast of Sardinia. Here the variety takes on pronounced salinity, stone fruits, and herb. Tenute Gregu and Capichera make good examples. Elsewhere on the island, Antonella Corda is making well balanced, versatile Vermentino. In Tuscany, there are very good wines made by the prestigious properties of Bolgheri. In the Maremma Toscana appellation, there are lots of good value wines to find.
